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Carrot "Jitka" F1
Carrot "Jitka" F1.
* How to grow carrots.
First of all, I would like to note that carrots are an extremely light-loving plant. The brighter the place, the easier it is to grow and the longer it can "sit".
You can plant carrots before winter from September 15 to 30 (but it is better not to do this, because the seeds often freeze, and there is no particular speed of germination, compared to early spring sowing).
In the spring, sowing carrots can begin from April 15, but it is most advisable to sow in warmed soil, approximately after May 5. The end of sowing is May 31. Harvesting for storage is carried out in September.
The main criterion for harvesting is the very moment when fresh leaves begin to appear on the carrots and small hairs on the roots.
This indicates that the carrots need to be harvested. Such carrots must be well dried, otherwise they will grow. If you harvested carrots before the above signs appeared, you can rest assured that they will not grow any further.
When harvesting carrots for storage, it is better not to cut off the tops, but to break them off with your hands, making twisting movements, followed by breaking them, which also prevents their subsequent growth.
Soil preparation.
Carrots, like all other root crops, like loose and well-drained soil. To prepare it, add 1 bucket of manure humus, 1 bucket of peat or turf soil, 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of rotted sawdust (this is not necessary, since it can be replaced with peat), 1 liter of garden lime (dolomite flour), 1/2 liter of ash, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 1 teaspoon of potassium fertilizers per 1 square meter. All this is carefully dug up and formed into ridges 45-50 centimeters wide.
Sowing seeds.
The seeds are sown in 3 longitudinal rows 1/2 centimeter deep, carried out in such a way that one of them passes in the middle of the ridge, and the other 2 at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. The seeds are scattered in a pinch at a rate of 1 gram per 3 linear meters. Then the seeds are sealed with the same soil.
The ridges are watered and lightly sprinkled with well-rotted peat or turf soil.
Since carrot seeds germinate very poorly, we strongly recommend covering the ridges with covering material until the shoots appear.
If there is none, you can use a film (however, this should not be done on hot days due to possible overheating).
Care of crops.
The first thinning is done at the stage of formation of seedlings (2-3 leaves). The most developed plants are left at a distance of about 1 cm from each other. Weeding is also carried out. The thinned rows are lightly hilled using a hand cultivator, then the beds are watered.
The second thinning is carried out at the stage of ovary formation. Just like the first time, the best plants are left, but now the distance between them is 2-3 cm. The plants are no longer hilled, but the inter-rows are loosened.
Watering is carried out as needed (it should be especially intensive in July).
During the entire growing period, it is advisable to carry out 2 top dressings with organic fertilizers: the first - in the period between thinnings and the second - in mid-July. For this, you can use liquid manure diluted in a ratio of 1 to 15-20 with a consumption of 10 liters per 1 square meter of the bed or humate, diluting it according to the instructions.
The liquid manure is prepared as follows: several buckets of fresh manure are placed in a container (for example, a barrel) and filled with water in a ratio of 1:1, covered so that it does not get flooded by rain and does not "stink", and kept for 3-4 days, periodically stirring (1-2 times a day). Only the dissolved part is used for feeding (the remaining slurry can be re-filled with water in the same ratio).
* How to grow carrots.
First of all, I would like to note that carrots are an extremely light-loving plant. The brighter the place, the easier it is to grow and the longer it can "sit".
You can plant carrots before winter from September 15 to 30 (but it is better not to do this, because the seeds often freeze, and there is no particular speed of germination, compared to early spring sowing).
In the spring, sowing carrots can begin from April 15, but it is most advisable to sow in warmed soil, approximately after May 5. The end of sowing is May 31. Harvesting for storage is carried out in September.
The main criterion for harvesting is the very moment when fresh leaves begin to appear on the carrots and small hairs on the roots.
This indicates that the carrots need to be harvested. Such carrots must be well dried, otherwise they will grow. If you harvested carrots before the above signs appeared, you can rest assured that they will not grow any further.
When harvesting carrots for storage, it is better not to cut off the tops, but to break them off with your hands, making twisting movements, followed by breaking them, which also prevents their subsequent growth.
Soil preparation.
Carrots, like all other root crops, like loose and well-drained soil. To prepare it, add 1 bucket of manure humus, 1 bucket of peat or turf soil, 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of rotted sawdust (this is not necessary, since it can be replaced with peat), 1 liter of garden lime (dolomite flour), 1/2 liter of ash, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 1 teaspoon of potassium fertilizers per 1 square meter. All this is carefully dug up and formed into ridges 45-50 centimeters wide.
Sowing seeds.
The seeds are sown in 3 longitudinal rows 1/2 centimeter deep, carried out in such a way that one of them passes in the middle of the ridge, and the other 2 at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. The seeds are scattered in a pinch at a rate of 1 gram per 3 linear meters. Then the seeds are sealed with the same soil.
The ridges are watered and lightly sprinkled with well-rotted peat or turf soil.
Since carrot seeds germinate very poorly, we strongly recommend covering the ridges with covering material until the shoots appear.
If there is none, you can use a film (however, this should not be done on hot days due to possible overheating).
Care of crops.
The first thinning is done at the stage of formation of seedlings (2-3 leaves). The most developed plants are left at a distance of about 1 cm from each other. Weeding is also carried out. The thinned rows are lightly hilled using a hand cultivator, then the beds are watered.
The second thinning is carried out at the stage of ovary formation. Just like the first time, the best plants are left, but now the distance between them is 2-3 cm. The plants are no longer hilled, but the inter-rows are loosened.
Watering is carried out as needed (it should be especially intensive in July).
During the entire growing period, it is advisable to carry out 2 top dressings with organic fertilizers: the first - in the period between thinnings and the second - in mid-July. For this, you can use liquid manure diluted in a ratio of 1 to 15-20 with a consumption of 10 liters per 1 square meter of the bed or humate, diluting it according to the instructions.
The liquid manure is prepared as follows: several buckets of fresh manure are placed in a container (for example, a barrel) and filled with water in a ratio of 1:1, covered so that it does not get flooded by rain and does not "stink", and kept for 3-4 days, periodically stirring (1-2 times a day). Only the dissolved part is used for feeding (the remaining slurry can be re-filled with water in the same ratio).
