An early-ripening variety with a uniform yield: from germination to the first harvest of fruits 62-87 days.
The plants have long vines and medium leaf blade dissection. The fruits are round, smooth, and medium-sized, with marketable fruit weighing 2.5-4.0 kg, 2-3 days earlier than the "Foton" variety.
The background color is green, with a pattern of dark green stripes of medium width. The bark is leathery and medium thick.
The pulp is dense, bright red, very sugary, tender, with a distinct watermelon aroma, excellent taste, with small black seeds.
Valued for its high quality in the early produce market, it transports and stores well.
Grows well in sandy and sandy loam soils. Excessively wet soils are unsuitable. The planting site should be slightly elevated, well-warmed, sunny, and protected from winds. It can be replanted in the same location no sooner than after 4 years.

PLANT CARE.
Typically, one week after planting, the plants require no further care other than ventilation in sunny, warm weather. Ventilation is necessary when temperatures rise above 30°C. To do this, open the greenhouse vents or fold back the plastic covering at the ends.
About a week later, after the soil has dried, water the plants with warm water, combining this with nitrogen fertilizer (20 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water; 2 liters of solution per well). Water very carefully, being careful not to wet the hypocotyls or leaves.
Further care for plants in a greenhouse and under plastic cover differs slightly. Let's look at them separately.
In the greenhouse.
Approximately 7-10 days after planting, the plants are supported. The staking system is similar to that used for cucumbers. Watermelon plants are grown as a single stem. Lateral shoots that form in the leaf axils are managed as follows: shoots without fruit buds are removed; shoots with fruit buds are pinched back, leaving 2-3 leaves above the bud. When the plant reaches the trellis, it is pinched back.
It is important to remember that once 2, maximum 3 fruits, approximately the size of a chicken egg, have formed, all remaining ovaries are removed, as the plant will not be able to form more fruits, and they will not have time to ripen.
Melon plants are trained as follows. After pinching the top of the plant during the seedling stage, several side shoots will form. Select one or two of the strongest and train them as the main shoot (tying each to the trellis), then remove the rest. Subsequent training is the same as for watermelon.
In addition to shaping the plants, water them approximately once a week; reduce watering during fruit ripening. In addition to the initial nitrogen fertilizer application (approximately a week after planting), apply at least two more applications of complex fertilizer, spaced approximately 2-3 weeks apart. Sometimes, one fruit begins to grow vigorously while the others turn yellow—this indicates insufficient nutrition. When growing in a greenhouse, pay attention to pollination. Insects typically enter the greenhouse through open windows, but if pollination does not occur, it must be achieved artificially (by transferring pollen from a male flower to the stigma of a female flower).
One of the most important aspects of growing watermelons and melons in a greenhouse is staking the fruit. Typically, the buds, which have grown to the size of a large apple, are placed in the center of a square piece of mesh, the edges of which are tied together and secured with twine to the trellis. Each fruit is then tied in this manner.
Under film cover.
The plastic film on the covers is not removed until approximately mid- to late June (depending on weather conditions). By this time, the plants begin to bloom, and insects need access for pollination. After the plastic film is completely removed, the bed is weeded and loosened. The shoots are evenly distributed over the surface of the bed. As in a greenhouse, after 1-3 fruits have formed on each plant, all remaining ovaries are periodically removed and the tops are pinched to ensure that the plant devotes all its energy to fruit formation. Side shoots that do not bear fruit are pruned to allow the plants better light. Fertilizing is carried out in the same way as when grown in a greenhouse. In open ground, it is advisable to place boards under the ovaries to prevent the developing fruits from rotting.

