The taste is amazing!
An early-ripening, indeterminate, heart-shaped cherry tomato hybrid that produces more than 20 fruits per cluster.
weighing 18-20 g.

* When the second true leaf appears, the seedlings are transplanted into peat-humus pots or cubes, paper or cardboard cups filled with a nutrient mixture.
The best, healthiest seedlings are selected for transplanting. They are carefully removed from the seed tray, a hole is made in the soil with a stake, and then the seedling is placed in the tray. One-third of the main root is removed first to ensure proper root development.
When planting, the roots of the transplanted seedling are pressed firmly with soil to prevent it from being pulled out. Seedlings are always pricked out slightly deeper than they were growing in the seed tray. When pricking out, the seedling is planted up to the cotyledons.
Pots with transplanted seedlings are watered generously with water heated to +20+25°C and shaded for 24 hours.
The daytime temperature is maintained at +15 to +18°C, and at night at +10 to +12°C. Once the plants have established themselves, they are moved closer to the light. It is advisable to provide supplemental lighting to extend the daylight hours to 12-14 hours per day.
Fluorescent lamps are initially positioned 15-20 cm above the plants, and are raised higher as the plants grow. Fertilizing irrigation is also recommended. During the seedling growth period, three additional feedings are given at 10-12 day intervals: the first one is given 10 days after transplanting.
The first and second feedings are given at the rate of: 5 g of urea, 40 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium salt per bucket of water.
The third feeding consists of double the amount of fertilizer. For 16-17 plants, 0.5-0.6 liters of nutrient solution is used.
After each feeding, water the seedlings (mandatory ! ) with clean water to rinse the solution from the leaves. While applying fertilizer, monitor the condition of the seedlings: if growth is slow, increase the urea dose, and if growth is strong, add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
If tomato seedlings are grown in boxes or insulated greenhouses, it's important to remember that when the seedlings are removed from the box or greenhouse, a significant number of roots are torn off, significantly reducing the absorptive capacity of the entire root system. The remaining roots are unable to replenish the water lost through evaporation from the leaf surface, which disrupts the plant's vital functions. The greater the discrepancy between the absorptive capacity of the roots and the evaporative capacity of the leaf surface, the more severely the plant's vital functions are impaired. Therefore, mature, well-foliated seedlings are the most sensitive to transplantation.
It should be noted that the maximum age of tomato seedlings should be 60-70 days.
What varieties of tomatoes are best for freezing?
For freezing, varieties with small and fleshy fruits are best suited. If the choice fell on cherry tomatoes for freezing, then they are frozen whole, after pricking the skin with a needle.
If you want to freeze large tomatoes, this is also quite possible. To do this, blanch the tomatoes in boiling water to remove the skin from them, cut them into small pieces and let the juice and seeds drain. Pieces prepared in this way can be placed in the freezer in freezer bags. Or you can cut the tomatoes into larger pieces, leaving the skin on them. In this case, for freezing, the tomatoes are laid out in one layer and then poured into bags.
Fruits selected for freezing must be ripe, without damage and uniform in size and colour.
If we consider the suitability of tomatoes with different colours for freezing, then red and orange tomatoes are considered the best.
Can all tomatoes be dried?
The optimal form of tomatoes for drying is plum-shaped. The second ideal quality is a good pulp structure.
Such tomatoes for drying are cut in half lengthwise. If it is planned to dry meaty tomatoes, then they should be cut across, and excess moisture should be removed with dry napkins before drying.
Which tomatoes keep well?
It should be noted that not all varieties and hybrids are suitable for storage. There are hybrids specially bred for these purposes, such as La-la-fa, Evpator. The fruits of these hybrids can be stored in the most common conditions (for example, pantry, cellar) for up to 1.5-2 months without loss of consumer qualities. However, these hybrids have a small drawback - their fruits are not very brightly coloured, and the taste of the fruits is average.
Modern hybrids, such as Azov, Gvidon and Aladdin, in addition to excellent storage performance (the same 1.5-2 months), have a rich, dense red color of the fruit and a high sugar content.
It is the high content of sugars and dry matter in general that helps the fruits of these hybrids to be stored for such a long time, in contrast to the hybrids of the first group, the safety of which is due to the slow ripening of the fruits.
Large multi-chamber fruits are well stored - here the role of the "first violin" in storage is played by a large number of cells in the fetus.
Varieties and hybrids of cherry and cocktail tomatoes show themselves excellently during storage - they have good keeping quality due to the high sugar content, dense arrangement of cells and small size.
Pink-fruited tomatoes are prone to cracking due to the very delicate structure of the pulp and thin skin.