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Gloxinia "Avanti Wine-Red" F1
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Gloxinia "Avanti Wine-Red" F1 - Sinningia speciosa.
A luxurious and very fashionable among flower growers indoor plant from the Gesneriaceae family. The earliest blooming series among non-double gloxinias.
Bell-shaped flowers, wine-red, with a pleasant velvety surface crown long peduncles. Broadly oval leaves on short petioles decorate the base of the peduncle. On an adult plant, 10-15 large flowers are formed, creating the impression of an elegant bouquet.
Gloxinia prefers bright, sunny places without exposure to direct sunlight. The ideal temperature for growth is +20°C +25°C during the day and +18°C +22°C at night.
During flowering, abundant watering, weekly fertilizing, humid air (spraying from a spray bottle) are necessary.
In October-November, after flowering, watering and fertilizing are stopped. When the gloxinia leaves dry out, the tubers are removed from the soil and stored in shallow boxes with slightly damp sand or perlite, which are placed in a room with a temperature of +10 to +12°C. After a dormant period (approximately 90 days), the tubers will produce new shoots and they can be transplanted into a pot again.
Seeds in granules! The granules are placed on the surface of the soil, without sealing them into the soil, and are well moistened with a spray bottle (the seeds germinate in the light!).
When moisture gets on the granule, the shell should dissolve. The crops are covered with glass to maintain constant humidity until full germination. Seedlings require additional illumination from January to mid-March. In the phase of one true leaf, the seedlings are picked. From February to March, covered with glass and placed in a warm, bright place.
Shoots appear at a temperature of +22 to +24°C, in 10-14 days. In the 3-leaf phase, the plants are pricked out and a month later they are planted in separate pots. Gloxinia grown from seeds blooms in 9-10 months.
A luxurious and very fashionable among flower growers indoor plant from the Gesneriaceae family. The earliest blooming series among non-double gloxinias.
Bell-shaped flowers, wine-red, with a pleasant velvety surface crown long peduncles. Broadly oval leaves on short petioles decorate the base of the peduncle. On an adult plant, 10-15 large flowers are formed, creating the impression of an elegant bouquet.
Gloxinia prefers bright, sunny places without exposure to direct sunlight. The ideal temperature for growth is +20°C +25°C during the day and +18°C +22°C at night.
During flowering, abundant watering, weekly fertilizing, humid air (spraying from a spray bottle) are necessary.
In October-November, after flowering, watering and fertilizing are stopped. When the gloxinia leaves dry out, the tubers are removed from the soil and stored in shallow boxes with slightly damp sand or perlite, which are placed in a room with a temperature of +10 to +12°C. After a dormant period (approximately 90 days), the tubers will produce new shoots and they can be transplanted into a pot again.
Seeds in granules! The granules are placed on the surface of the soil, without sealing them into the soil, and are well moistened with a spray bottle (the seeds germinate in the light!).
When moisture gets on the granule, the shell should dissolve. The crops are covered with glass to maintain constant humidity until full germination. Seedlings require additional illumination from January to mid-March. In the phase of one true leaf, the seedlings are picked. From February to March, covered with glass and placed in a warm, bright place.
Shoots appear at a temperature of +22 to +24°C, in 10-14 days. In the 3-leaf phase, the plants are pricked out and a month later they are planted in separate pots. Gloxinia grown from seeds blooms in 9-10 months.
Bot. syn.: Sinningia speciosa (Lodd.) Hiern.
Did you know that:
* Adult gloxinia specimens (from 3-4 years of age) with proper care can bloom for a long time - from May to September, and abundantly, forming up to a hundred flowers during flowering, sometimes 10-15 buds blooming at the same time. To extend the flowering period, faded flower stalks are cut out immediately.
* Until mid-May, gloxinia can be kept without shading on a western or even southern window (unless very hot summer weather sets in at this time), and from mid-May until the end of summer, eastern and northern window sills are preferable.
* When the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, they are cut off, and the soil in the pots should dry out. Then the plant is removed until spring to a dark and cool place (at a temperature of about +12+14°C). If the tubers of the sinningia have grown too large, it is advisable to take them out of the pot, dry them and store them all winter in clean, calcined sand or loose peat. In this case, if the tubers begin to dry out and wrinkle, the sand or peat is slightly moistened.
* If you want to get gloxinia seeds yourself, then artificial pollination is used for this. In order for the seeds to ripen, watering is not reduced after flowering. The seed pods gradually turn yellow and open. When this begins to happen, the pods are removed, all above-ground parts of the plant are cut off, and after drying the soil in the pot, they are put away in storage. Sinningia seeds are stored in paper bags in a dry place. Gloxinia can be cross-pollinated with each other, and it also easily crosses with streptocarpus, resulting in streptoxinia with blue or pink flowers.
* When replanting, as well as any method of propagation, the gloxinia tuber should not be deeply buried in the soil - the soil layer above it is desirable to be no more than 1 cm for adult plants and 0.5 cm for young ones. If the tuber is deeply buried in the soil, it will form only one shoot, the leaves of the plant are very large, but the plant does not look so beautiful. If the tuber is planted shallowly, it produces 1-2 shoots at a young age, and in an adult plant it forms 3-5 shoots and the bush will be more lush, but with smaller leaves.
Brown spots on the leaves - the plant was watered with cold water, the water for irrigation should be warm.
Leaves turn yellow - overdose of fertilizers, too dry or too humid air, too much sun.
Gray coating on leaves and flowers - gray rot or powdery mildew, which usually occurs when the conditions of maintenance are violated. Stop spraying, remove affected parts, treat with a systemic fungicide.
The plant does not bloom - due to insufficient lighting, lack of nutrition in the soil, dry or cold air, improper maintenance during the dormant period, excess nitrogen fertilizers.
