Onion "Wellina" /200 g/

* The best predecessors for onions are cucumbers, zucchini, squash, peas, tomatoes, early potatoes, early cabbage. The growing area should be light, not shaded. If the soil is acidic, it must be neutralized.
200-300 g of neutralizing acid is added to medium-acid soil, 400-500 g per 1 m2 to acidic soil, which is spread evenly on the surface and dug through. To neutralize the soil, hardwood ash can be used instead of lime, but it must be added to the soil 2-3 times more. In the spring, 5-7 kg of compost or rotted manure, 60-80 g/m2 of nitrofoska and 1 glass of salt should be introduced into the soil. After digging through, rake and make beds 10-15 cm high and 1 m wide. Onion seeds have a hard shell around them that does not allow water to pass through well, and they germinate poorly in open ground. That is why they must be soaked for 1-2 days before sowing. But before soaking, they must be kept in hot water. At first, keep in cold water for 4 hours and then for 10 minutes. in hot (+48+50°C) and cool immediately. Change the water 2-3 times. Sow the seeds in rows 10-15 cm apart, 2-3 cm deep.
To ensure that the seeds are evenly distributed, mix them with chalk, and then the white seeds will be clearly visible on the black soil. Cover with peat or sawdust 1-1.5 cm thick. It is advisable to cover the beds with a film, under which a uniform moisture and air regime will be formed.
It should be remembered that the growths will appear on the 7-8th day. Then remove the film.
Water heavily once a week to a depth of 20 cm. During bulb formation, water every 4-5 days and reduce by a third. In mid-July, about 25-30 days before harvesting, no more watering is required, even in dry weather.
In the initial stage of onion development, they especially need nitrogen fertilizer and phosphorus. In the phase of 2-3 true leaves, they are watered with a blood meal solution 1:10. or bird droppings solution 1:20 and add 10-15 g of manure or ammonium nitrate. 10 liters of solution is needed for 1-1.5 m. You can also use nitrofoska at 20-25 g/m2. In the second half of summer, no more nitrogen is given.
At the beginning of July, fertilize with 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium per 10 liters of water. After fertilizing and watering, loosen the soil to a depth of 2-4 cm.
In August, when the tops begin to dry, the plants are pulled up. The soil should not be trampled or the tops crushed in order to make the onion ripen faster. Such onions do not store well. Harvesting should not be delayed because in wet weather it may start growing again. If the summer has been rainy, the top onions are harvested at the end of July without waiting for the leaves to dry. The top onions are dried for 15-20 days, placing them in a thin layer on a rack and stirring occasionally. In dry weather, they are dried in the sun, in wet weather in a well-ventilated room.
When drying onions with leaves, nutrients move from the leaves to the onion and they ripen accordingly. The neck of the onion becomes thin. A yellow skin forms around the onion, the dry leaves are removed by hand. The onions are then sorted by size and stored.
The standard top onion is 1.5-2.5 cm. It is stored at room temperature +18+25°C in baskets or simply in bags. The layer thickness should not be thicker than 25 cm, so that the onion does not shrivel. Top onions stored in this way do not rot after planting. Thin top onions (1-1.5 cm) usually dry out during storage, which is why they are planted in the ground in October for winter.