Your shopping cart is empty!
Sweet pepper "Goccia d'Oro"
Sweet Pepper "Goccia d'Oro".
Juicy fruit with thick walls and excellent taste!
A mid-early, high-yielding variety suitable for cultivation in any climatic zone. Considered one of the sweetest peppers.
Characteristics:
* Plant: Tall, spreading.
* Fruits: 3-4 chambered, juicy, thick-walled. They turn intensely red when fully ripe.
* Value: High taste quality and prolonged fruiting period.
Use: Fresh consumption, canning, culinary processing.
Agrotechnics: Grown via seedlings (depth 1 cm, germination temp +25°C). Plant out after frost danger passes.
MASTER CLASS: Growing Giant Peppers.
1. Mulching and Loosening.
Loosening the soil every other day after watering ensures large peppers. The easiest way to maintain moisture is mulching with straw (10-15 cm layer) soaked in urea. The soil stays moist for weeks.
2. Feeding Scheme (Nitrate Stimulation).
For giant sizes (300-400 g), organic matter is good, but mineral feeding is crucial. Apply nitrate 3-4 times per season (approx. 20g per 10 L of water):
* Spring: Ammonium nitrate (works best in cold soil).
* Early Summer: Potassium nitrate (source of potassium for fruit filling).
* Second half of Summer: Calcium nitrate (nutrition + prevents blossom end rot).
Safety tip: To prevent nitrate accumulation and fruit drop, use foliar sprays: Boric acid (1 g) + Superphosphate (20 g) per 10 L of water.
3. Foliage and Rationing.
Do not remove excess leaves — they nourish the fruits! However, limit the number of fruits. The more peppers on the bush, the smaller they are. To grow giants, pinch off all fruits except the three largest and healthiest ones.
Note: Large-fruited hybrids require regular watering. Irregular irrigation may result in only a couple of fruits per bush.
Juicy fruit with thick walls and excellent taste!
A mid-early, high-yielding variety suitable for cultivation in any climatic zone. Considered one of the sweetest peppers.
Characteristics:
* Plant: Tall, spreading.
* Fruits: 3-4 chambered, juicy, thick-walled. They turn intensely red when fully ripe.
* Value: High taste quality and prolonged fruiting period.
Use: Fresh consumption, canning, culinary processing.
Agrotechnics: Grown via seedlings (depth 1 cm, germination temp +25°C). Plant out after frost danger passes.
MASTER CLASS: Growing Giant Peppers.
1. Mulching and Loosening.
Loosening the soil every other day after watering ensures large peppers. The easiest way to maintain moisture is mulching with straw (10-15 cm layer) soaked in urea. The soil stays moist for weeks.
2. Feeding Scheme (Nitrate Stimulation).
For giant sizes (300-400 g), organic matter is good, but mineral feeding is crucial. Apply nitrate 3-4 times per season (approx. 20g per 10 L of water):
* Spring: Ammonium nitrate (works best in cold soil).
* Early Summer: Potassium nitrate (source of potassium for fruit filling).
* Second half of Summer: Calcium nitrate (nutrition + prevents blossom end rot).
Safety tip: To prevent nitrate accumulation and fruit drop, use foliar sprays: Boric acid (1 g) + Superphosphate (20 g) per 10 L of water.
3. Foliage and Rationing.
Do not remove excess leaves — they nourish the fruits! However, limit the number of fruits. The more peppers on the bush, the smaller they are. To grow giants, pinch off all fruits except the three largest and healthiest ones.
Note: Large-fruited hybrids require regular watering. Irregular irrigation may result in only a couple of fruits per bush.
* Growing peppers in greenhouses.
Seedlings are transferred to film greenhouses at 50-60 days of age. Planting dates depend on weather conditions and types of film greenhouses. Seedlings are planted in heated film greenhouses from late March to mid-April, in unheated ones - in mid-May.
In film greenhouses, peppers are grown on a flat surface or on ridges 120 cm wide. In low places, where the soil is waterlogged and heavy, the ridges are made high (20-30 cm). In them, the soil warms up better and is easier to maintain in a loose state. The feeding area of the plant depends on the variety.
On the ridge, seedlings of medium-sized varieties are planted in two rows with a distance between them of 40 cm, between plants in a row of 30 cm. Dwarf varieties are planted in 3-4 rows, the distance between rows is 20 cm, between plants in a row is 15 cm.
In film greenhouses, large temperature changes and high relative air humidity should not be allowed. This leads to crop loss. During the period of plant growth and development, it is generally accepted that the optimal air temperature in the greenhouse is +20+22 °C, briefly up to +26 °C; at higher temperatures, plants actively increase the vegetative mass, but the flowers are not pollinated and fall off. To reduce the temperature, greenhouses must be ventilated.
The formation of plants depends on the selected variety and growing conditions. If a variety or hybrid belongs to the group of short or medium-sized, then special shaping is not required for them. Even if the varieties are tall and grown in a film greenhouse, they also do not require shaping. In this case, it is only necessary to remove those shoots that do not bear fruit, as well as the side shoots located below the first branch of the main stem.
You should always remember that pepper is a light-loving crop and the better the illumination of the plant, the higher the yield. In dense shade, flowers are not pollinated and fall off. Tall varieties and hybrids, large-leaved, branch heavily and become bulky, which leads to shading.
After the formation of 9-10 leaves, 3 or more lateral shoots of the first order appear on the plant. From these shoots, you need to choose the 2 strongest shoots. These shoots will create the skeleton of the plant. They are left to grow, and all the rest must be pinched into 1 leaf and 1 flower.
The skeletal branches are tied to the trellis, each separately. In the future, it is necessary to monitor when the shoots are left as skeletal ones begin to branch. For each branching, you need to select the most developed shoot and leave it as the main one. The remaining, weaker shoot, located opposite, needs to be pinched after the first leaf. The same should be done with all subsequent branches of the plant. In addition, it is necessary to periodically remove side shoots and flowers growing below the branching point and yellowed leaves on the main stem. A month before the end of the growing season, pinch off the tops of the shoots. Thus, the formation of new ovaries stops, and the incoming nutrients will be distributed among the ripening fruits.
